Balham Bowls Club
Critic's Choice

A crusty bowls club goes into receivership, the old score cards, wall plaques (‘Timber Traders Benevolence Society’!) and furniture are saved, and the place is opened to the public. What a treasure the result is. The front half could be Sir John Mortimer’s living room, replete with Victorian dressing-screens, leather sofas and bookcases, while the space at the back could be a Labour Club in Barrow c.1971 (we loved the plastic bingo hall seats). This area also doubles as the dining room. Dishes on the daily changing menu come in sizes meant for sharing; the fish pie was an unctuous treat, overflowing with prawns – but expensive at £14. Draught beers include Bitburger and Cruzcampo. Overall, a genuine London peculiar.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008